SIZING

When selecting the right size for a vintage Chanel jacket, both the fit and the brand’s characteristic construction should be considered.

Most Chanel jackets have a close, tailored fit, particularly around the shoulders, chest, and upper arms. Sizing down is not appropriate, as it restricts movement. Taking one’s regular size results in a more fitted silhouette and may limit layering to lighter pieces, such as a sleeveless top. For the option to wear a t-shirt or light knit underneath, opting for half to one size larger is recommended, particularly for the classic collarless four-pocket model.

Sizing up is not always required and depends on the desired fit. A more tailored look calls for one’s regular size, while a slightly more relaxed fit benefits from additional room. Sizing up more than one size is generally not suitable for the classic collarless four-pocket model, as it can appear overly oversized and lose its intended balance. Jackets with a more relaxed or boxy construction, such as those with drop shoulders, allow for sizing up more naturally and can enhance the overall look.

Chanel jackets follow French sizing standards. Vintage Chanel pieces do not always correspond precisely to the size indicated on the label. In many cases, particularly pieces from the 1990s, jackets tend to fit approximately half a size smaller. The label size should therefore not be relied upon as the sole reference.

It is essential to review the measurements of each jacket to understand its size and compare them to personal measurements. The most accurate method to determine one’s own measurements is to measure a well-fitting jacket from one’s wardrobe and use it as a point of comparison, ideally one with clearly defined shoulder seams.

 

 

A guideline for measuring a jacket

  • Place the jacket on a flat, clean surface.
  • Shoulders: Measure the shoulder width of a jacket with tailored shoulders and clearly defined seams. Measure from one shoulder seam to the other. As a guideline, a size 36 measures approximately 36 cm, a size 38 measures 38 cm, and so on.
  • Chest: Lift the sleeves slightly to access the underarm area. Measure from one armpit to the other. The chest is typically around 10 cm wider than the shoulders.
  • Length: Measure from the top of the shoulder to the hem, both front and back, to assess the overall length. Most jackets fall at hip length, though variations include cropped styles and longer silhouettes. Proportion should be considered in relation to personal preference.
  • Sleeves: Measure from shoulder to cuff. Chanel sleeves are often intentionally shorter, finishing above the wrist to reveal jewellery. For a longer sleeve, lengths of approximately 60 to 64 cm may be preferred.

 

More to take into consideration

1. Even after comparing measurements, it remains essential to review the description of the jacket’s fit. Variations in cut and construction can cause a piece to fit larger or smaller than measurements alone suggest. This should be taken into account when assessing overall fit.

2. Fit should allow for comfortable movement. If a jacket feels too small, it will not wear well. It is important to assess the fit honestly, as there can be a tendency to choose pieces that are slightly too small.

3. Personal preference also plays an important role. Certain colours, cuts, and proportions will feel more natural for one than others. The most successful choice is a jacket that aligns with both fit and individual style.

4.  Each jacket offered at the KERN1 online store is individually assessed. Measurements are taken, the piece is tried on, and compared to the original label where available. The size presented on the website reflects this evaluation, together with the exact measurements of the garment.

5. KERN1 is based in the Netherlands and uses EU sizing. EU sizes correspond to French sizing minus one. For example, a size 34 EU equals a size 36 FR. A full size conversion guide is provided for reference.


 

Alterations

For ease of movement and tailoring, Chanel jackets are constructed using multiple panels, both in the exterior and interior. This construction often includes seam allowance beneath the lining, allowing many jackets to be adjusted by one to two sizes. Additional fabric is typically present at the seams and can be released to create more space where needed. While this possibility applies to the majority of Chanel jackets, some pieces, particularly unlined styles, may not include additional seam allowance.

Keeping all of the above in mind ensures a jacket that sits well on the body and continues to feel right over time.